Capitol Reef National Park

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Capitol Reef in a Day: Geology and History

My friend Jen and I relax on the lawn in front of the old historic Gifford Farmhouse listening to local cowboy, Brenn Hill, play his guitar and sing about the old west. It’s my favorite time of the day, and the setting sun reflecting off the sandstone wall creates one of the best backdrops I’ve ever seen for a concert. The cowboy and the canyon combine two unique aspects of Capitol Reef National Park, the geology and the pioneer history.

The first known inhabitants here, the Fremont Indians, called this area the Land of the Sleeping Rainbow because of the colorful sandstone striations. When the Rocky Mountains were being formed, the stress caused this area to buckle, exposing millions of years of ancient deserts and seas, and creating a large fold, or monocline, as it is known to geologists. So large, in fact, that it stretches a hundred miles from Thousand Lakes Mountain, to Lake Powell. Locally, this defining feature of Capitol Reef National Park is called the Waterpocket Fold, because stone basins created by erosion called waterpockets are common throughout.

One of the best ways to experience the geology of this area is by taking a driving tour. There are two that I would suggest: one identifies the different layers of sandstone, while the other overlooks the Waterpocket Fold and the park. If you’ve only got a day,, you’ll probably need to choose just one. The first is appropriately named The Scenic Drive. This 10 mile road is accessible to ordinary passenger vehicles, except during wet weather, and starts at the park Visitor Center where you can pick up a free guide. Although entrance to Capitol Reef National Park is free, this drive does cost $5 per vehicle, except for holders of Golden Eagle, Golden Age, or Golden Access passes. Expect to spend at least an hour since you’ll be stopping and looking around from time to time along the way. The very last stop includes a nice walk past some petrogyphs into the Waterpocket Fold where you can take a look at some of the waterpockets created by erosion in the sandstone. There other hikes along the drive as well, but since it’s not a loop, I suggest that you complete the drive first and save any additional hikes for the way back to insure you that have enough time to do everything else you’d like to do in the park.

The second driving tour is actually outside of the park so there are no specific hiking routes or cost, but it offers some great overlooks of the giant monocline and the surrounding landscape. It may even be on your traveling route already if you’re headed south after Capitol Reef. Travel south on highway 12 from Torrey towards Boulder and Escalante until you see signs indicating the lookout points. The visitor’s center has maps that will show the lookouts as well. You’ll reach the first one in about forty-five minutes. Although none of them will provide a complete view of the Waterpocket Fold (you’ll have to take a plane ride to see that), the views are still pretty impressive.

Of course a National Park would be nothing without its hikes and Capitol Reef is no exception. This park is a day hiker’s paradise with a variety of short hikes close to the visitor’s center where you can get detailed information for all of them. One of my favorites is Cohab canyon which starts just above the campground area. This three-and-a-half mile round-trip starts with some steep switch-backs, but shortly you enter the shallow canyon and the rest of the hike is mostly flat shady unless the sun is directly overhead. Don’t miss the brief views of Capitol Reef and the Fremont valley before you enter the canyon. What I like best about this hike is the different colors of sandstone, and the unusual wind erosion. It reminds me of Swiss cheese every time.

On hot days, adventurous hikers will also enjoy Sulfur Spring. This five mile river hike starts near Chimney rock and ends at the visitor’s center. The highlights include three small waterfalls which can be scrambled around quite easily. However, it is a one-way hike, so you will need to arrange a shuttle car or other arrangements from the visitor’s center to get back to your vehicle at the trailhead.

Even with all of these great hikes, my favorite part of Capitol Reef is still probably the historical value. Merely driving through the park on highway 24 you pass Fremont petrogyphs, old pioneer settlements, and antiquated wagons. You’ll want to stop and look through the windows of the Fruita Schoolhouse, still ready for class to begin at any moment. The historical Gifford Homestead sometimes offers cultural demonstrations of pioneer times, but even when there aren’t special events, you can still look around and buy a bottle of root beer or some horehound candy. Of course the fruit orchards are the largest legacy left by the Mormon pioneers that settled this area. Still part of the park, during harvest season visitors can pick the apples, pears, peaches, cherries, apricots, mulberries, and the plums that still grow there.

Maybe because it’s off the beaten path, or maybe because the pioneer settlements and orchards are reminiscent of simpler times, but whatever the reason, time seems to pass more slowly in Capitol Reef. Far away from the hustle and bustle of larger National Parks, this is an ideal place for casual relaxation while strolling along the Fremont river, or watching the mule dear tamely graze a few feet away while you eat lunch.

Capitol Reef in a Day: Geology and History

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